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MA Stratus 90
JR 770T Gyro
JR Vibe 50 First Impressions
Futaba 12FG Review
OS 91 PS SZ Review
Raptor 50 Titan
Si in Denver, Colorado, May 2007
Si in Hong Kong, May 2007
Si in Manila, The Philippines, May 2007
Si in Wisconsin, Feb 2007
Si in Toronto, Feb 2007
Synergy N9 Follow Up
Fun with T-Rexes
Building the Synergy N9
Regulated Power Systems
Kyosho Caliber 5 Review
Henseleit 3DMP Review
Getting the most with CCPM from your 14MZ
Setting up the 14MZ
Building the T-Rex 450SE
F3C World Champs 2005
Kyosho Caliber 5 Pics
Si in Amsterdam
Si in Tel Aviv, Israel
Si in Cairo, Egypt
Si in Vancouver, Canada
Si in Toronto, Canada
Futaba 14MZ
Road to the Worlds - Part II
Hong Kong Adventure
Vario JetCopter SX
Road to the Worlds
JR Datasafe
European Adventure
Building the Raptor 90 SE
Building the Sylphide
Asia Pacific F3C Open
American Adventure
JR Challenge 2004
How to setup your rotorhead
9Z for Dummies
3D Downunder
Victorian F3C Champs
Visit to Model Engines
Flying the Fury Tempest FAI
Pilot Profile - Pete (Panos) Niotis
Australian Trip 03
Introduction to the Century Predator
Building the Fury Tempest FAI
Professional Aerial Photography
Pilot Profile - Dwight Schilling
Pilot Profile - Russ Deakin
Pilot Profile - Dwight Schilling
Toolbox Essentials
Setup for F3C
Vigor Refit
Pilot Profile - Curtis Youngblood
JR Challenge 2003
Pilot Profile - Len Sabato
Helicopter Resources
Comparing the Webra 91AAR and the YS 91ST
Engine Tuning
Curtis Youngblood in New Zealand
Futaba GV-1 Governor
Pilot Profile - Malorie Zastrow
Scale: Flybarless Heads
Pilot Profile - Jason Krause
JR 10X
Pilot Profile - Mark Christy
Futaba 9Z WCII
Pilot Profile - Alan Szabo Jr
163km/h with a Vigor CS!
Raptor 60 V2
Low cost, high camera!
TSK & the Squirrel Part (V)
Follow up - Hirobo Freya
Follow up - Hirobo Shuttle RG
Sceadu 30 update
Hirobo Shuttle RG
Vigor CS - My thoughts
Bye bye little Ergo
Kyosho Caliber 30
OS 91
JR Voyager 50
Hirobo Sceadu
TSK & the Squirrel Part (III)
NZ Team Returns from Heli World Champs
Hirobo Freya
Fury-ous!
OS 50 Review
Millie vs CS (Part III)
Living with the CS
TSK & the Squirrel (Part II)
Promoting the Hobby
Ergo Z230 Gasser
Millie vs CS (Part II)
Millie vs CS (Part I)
TSK & the Squirrel
TSK & the Squirrel (Part IV)
Fun with T-Rexes
Simon Lockington

Tiny the T-Rex has come out of retirement lately.  For a while, he was in the 'naughty corner' on account of a number of unexplainable crashes and the frustration of replacing servo gear sets every damn time.

However it's coming into summer now, and nothing screams summer more than some after-work T-Rexing in a local park, so it was time to bring Tiny back into the light.  Some quick repairs were called for such as soldering up the reciever antenna Tiny so graciously tore in half during a prior unplanned liason with the ground.

With the reciever fixed and the usual components replaced (spindle shaft, main shaft bearing, main shaft, main gear, servo gears etc), Tiny came out to the field with his (much) bigger brothers.

I had forgotten just how challenging flying a T-Rex can be and how squirrelly they can get if you don't take charge of the situation.  The difference between hairy situations with a T-Rex and a large nitro is you're generally laughing about the situation as it occurs rather than sweating like a Meerkat amongst Tigers.

Flying a T-Rex agressively can't help but sharpen your skills, the unpredictible nature of their actions means you have to be on your toes else you'll be replacing main gears (and servo gears) momentarily.  Another advantage to flying them is collective management, you can't afford to just stick bang a T-Rex, you've got to let it breathe and recover.

I thought I might document some of the adventures that Tiny and I have on our quest for a T-Rex that flies well and is easy to maintain.

Tiny is a stock out of the box T-Rex SE with the standard 430 motor, Hitec HS56 servos on cyclic and an 877 on the tail with a GY 401.  I'm also running the Align 325 Carbon blades.

IMPROVING THE TAIL
One of the problems I've always had with Tiny is the tail.  It has been difficult to get it to hold properly and stop wagging.  With the 877 on the tail, I had the gyro set to digital mode and a LOT of gain on to get any kind of reasonable holding power.  Naturally, this yielded wagging which was annoying.

Ofcourse you can go and purchase the Futaba 9650 which is supposed to make the tail great, but I wanted to keep the capital expenditure on Tiny to a minimum.

Align have an 'upgraded' tail drive system (the blue gears) that basically raise the ratio of head rotations to tail rotations (ie slowing down the tail).  The feedback from many of the reputable guys I asked was that this modification improved the tail. 

Given that Tiny was in bits on the bench after an 'upgrade opportunity' I ordered the blue tail upgrade to see if that could improve things.  In the package was included one of the new Hitec HS-65 servo to have a play with.  I decided that since I had no better application for it, I may as well try it on the tail.  I figured I had nothing to lose as I wasn't very impressed with how the 877 worked.  It always seemed to be behind the eight ball, even on the bench it looked like it was behind the action rather than quickly counteracting it.

Installing the blue slow down gears for the tail is a bit of effort.  You see it's not just the large gear that sits under the main gear, included in the kit is two more gears, one for the take off shaft that drives the belt and another for the tail output shaft, so there's a fair bit of work involved to implement the upgrade.

Another change I implemented was one I found on www.holmesrc.com where you pull the tail hub to the end of the tail output shaft and then screw it down again.  This in effect increases the total tail travel available.

Down at the park for testing, it was immediately noticeable how quiet Tiny had suddenly become, instead of the usual high pitched noisy howl, there was a much quieter whine.

We were flying in pretty high winds, and yet the tail was MUCH better than normal.  Tornadoes even going into wind were fine as long as you didn't load the machine up.  While it's hard to attribute which change (tail gears, tail servo, or moving the the tail hub) might have had the most impact, Andrew noticed significant improvements on his 450 XL just by moving the tail hub.  It's worth doing, just make sure you do that set screw up tight!

DAMAGE CONTROL
While I was ordering the tail upgrade, one of the other parts I ordered was the plastic components for a T-Rex XL.  Why would you order that Si?  I hear you ask?  After all, Tiny is an SE with all the bling bits on it, why are you ordering plastic?

After undertaking extensive analysis of numerous crashes by 450 XL's and my own 450 SE crashes, I've come to the following conclusions:

450XL's commonly break the following (amongst other things):
  • Plastic head block snaps off.
  • Flybar carrier
  • Main shaft
  • Spindle Shaft
  • and sometimes blade grips.

However most of the time the mainshaft bearings and servo gear sets survive.

450SE's commonly break:

  • Servo gears
  • Main shaft and bearings
  • Spindle Shaft

However I've never broken any of the metal bits on the head block.

My theory with XL's doing less gear sets than SE's is because something just about always snaps off on the head first thereby reducing the shock forces transmited to the servo gear sets, whereas on the SE's nothing normally snaps off on the head so all the force of the crash is directed into the servos.  I plan on kitting out Tiny with the new Hitec HS65s which are metal geared to try and help this, however I've heard that since the gears don't strip, the pushrods start to bend.  Something has to give!  However pushrods are a whole lot more convenient to replace.

My theory is that SE's do main shaft bearings more than XL's because of the metal bearing blocks which don't allow any flex.  So I ordered the plastic components for the XL to see if changing the top bearing block on an SE to the plastic one would help with bearing life.  In the couple of crashes since this modification, I haven't had to replace the main shaft bearings.  Normally I would have by now, but I'm not sure if I have enough data yet to validate this little exercise.

E-WATTS 2200MAH BATTERIES
I got a couple of E-Watts batteries from www.wattsuprc.com.au, the 2200mah ones.  I needed a couple extra to compliment my existing Align 2100 mah packs.  I'd had my Align packs for about a year now and they were going ok.  However once I strapped in the new E-Watts ones, Tiny changed into a hyped up little buzz saw!  I immediately had a lot more headspeed and felt a lot more snappy.

I always stop flying after five minutes on each pack, however the flight was much more enjoyable with the E-Watts batteries as the T-Rex felt more alive.  After a flight with the E-Watts batteries, I ran one of my old Align packs and noticed that the headspeed was down and in general the machine felt sluggish.

Now I'm not saying the Align packs are not as good, it could very well be that after year of usage that they're just no in peak form.  I don't know enough about electrical theory to know if that's a valid point or not, but certainly could be.

I had Andrew try one of my E-Watts batteries straight after flying one of his PolyQuest packs.  Immediately we noticed the headspeed to be higher and his T-Rex was a lot snappier.

So far, the E-Watts batteries seem to be a very worth while investment!

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